The Mer de Glace is one of the most visited natural tourist sites in France. It is located on the largest glacier in France, in the ski resort of Chamonix Mont-Blanc. It is possible to reach the famous ice cave by the Montenvers train or on foot.
History of the Mer de Glace
The Mer de Glace was discovered in 1741 by William Windham and the naturalist Richard Pococke. The two English friends set out to visit the glaciers of the Chamonix valley, disregarding local superstitions that said they were the lairs of demons.
Upon seeing the glacier, William Windham saw the sea that had frozen all at once due to the presence of a glacial breeze.
The Mer de Glace, originating from the Leschaux and Géant glaciers, is recognized as the largest in France. With a length of 7 km, its area is 40 km² and its thickness is 200 meters.
The development of the Montenvers esplanade in the 1880s
In 1880, the Grand Hôtel du Montenvers was inaugurated. The first tourists flocked to the site, accompanied by mules and chair porters. Then in 1882, the rack railway project was launched.
However, the locals were not in favor of this construction, fearing it would spoil the valley and have repercussions on the work of guides or muleteers, whom they wanted to protect. Nevertheless, the railway line was established and opened on August 9, 1908, to the place known as Caillet.
Since then, the arrival at Montenvers has been developed. In 2025, a different esplanade from the one we know will be inaugurated. The goal of the work? To rethink and enhance this classified tourist site in light of the impact of climate change.
A glacier facing climate change
While the landscape aspect has long been emphasized on the Montenvers esplanade, local stakeholders are now refocusing on the heritage value of the places. The cause is the increase in temperatures and the ever-increasing retreat of the Mer de Glace. It must be said that in 25 years, the glacier tongue has receded by 800 meters. It has also lost 100 meters in thickness.
A change that forces the high mountain and tourism world to adapt. Thus, the mountaineering season has shifted in recent years to between May and June. Until then, it took place in July and August. As for the Mer de Glace cave, its future remains uncertain. The new cable car leading there will also allow hikers to get closer to the major routes present in the massif when there is no longer any ice.
© France 3 Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
What to do at the Mer de Glace?
The Mer de Glace is a highly frequented tourist site. We therefore recommend going there at the very beginning or end of the season to avoid the crowds. Note that during peak periods, waiting times to access the site can be doubled.
Discover the ice cave
Redesigned every year, the ice cave will allow you to travel to the heart of the glacier. It highlights the life of mountaineers in the early 19th century. Accessible via a cable car, it is also possible to walk down via a footpath. Expect about twenty minutes of walking.
For those who would prefer the cable car, keep in mind that 580 steps separate it from the entrance to the cave. So make sure to wear appropriate footwear. Also, plan for warm clothing, as temperatures drop significantly.
© Chamonix-Mont-Blanc
Visit the Glaciorium
The Glaciorium is an interpretation center dedicated to glaciology. Its goal is to explain to visitors how a glacier works, from its formation to its progression, including its ecosystem. These ice expanses being indicators of the climate, the center also discusses the consequences of climate change. Part of the Glaciorium is dedicated to human settlement around glaciers.
Sleep at the Montenvers refuge
The Montenvers refuge was established in 1880. It is located at an altitude of 1,900 meters and overlooks the Mer de Glace. The premises were completely renovated in 2017. Now, the refuge has 17 rooms for 1 to 10 people. You can also enjoy the restaurant Le Panoramique. Pets are allowed.
From €226 per night.
Eat at the restaurant Le Panoramique
The restaurant Le Panoramique is worth a visit. Renovated in 2016, the establishment is decorated in the style of a dairy, while being reinterpreted in a more industrial style.
You will have the opportunity to taste regional products, fine and carefully selected, such as cheeses or charcuterie.
Le Panoramique is open in season and you can enjoy the terrace or the indoor room overlooking the Mer de Glace. We promise, you won’t be disappointed.
Contact: 04.50.53.87.70
Getting to the Mer de Glace
Several options are available to you if you wish to get to the Mer de Glace. From sporty hiking to family-friendly options, including the Montenvers train, the possibilities are numerous. The choice will therefore depend on your expectations, but also on your physical condition.
The Montenvers train
The less sporty and families with young children can take the Montenvers train to reach the Mer de Glace.
Departure is from the center of Chamonix, at an altitude of 1,035 meters. You will reach the Montenvers station, located at 1,913 meters, in 20 minutes. During the journey, you can enjoy the view of the mountains.
This little rack railway, known to all in the valley and beyond, runs on a slope of more than 9%. Improved as railway technology has evolved, the Montenvers now has electric locomotives. In the 1990s, this little train could accommodate more than a million passengers per year during peak season.
If you take it, don’t hesitate to chat with the driver. You might learn some anecdotes and secrets about this means of transport appreciated by holidaymakers, but also by climbers.
Extra tip: book your ticket before your trip. This way, you will avoid a long wait, especially during the summer holidays. Also, don’t hesitate to leave early in the morning. In addition to having fewer people, you will enjoy beautiful lighting on the mountains.
Hike the Grand Balcon Nord
The Grand Balcon Nord is a family hike with a positive elevation gain of only 171 meters. To reach the trail, you will need to take the first section of the Plan de l’Aiguille cable car. Then, follow the path indicating “Montenvers Mer de Glace.” Just before the last descent, you will overlook the Mer de Glace and can admire the view of the Drus, the Grandes Jorasses, or the Aiguille Verte.
Even though the trail is well-maintained, we recommend wearing mountain shoes or sneakers with a minimum grip, such as those for trail running. Don’t hesitate to bring trekking poles, especially if you tend to have knee pain.
Distance: 5.7 kilometers
Positive elevation gain: 171 meters
Negative elevation gain: 549 meters
Duration: 2 h 15
Extra tip: remember to book your round-trip ticket for the Plan de l’Aiguille. This way, you can take the Montenvers train on the way down, which will save you time.
Walk up from Chamonix
The last alternative to reach the Mer de Glace is to walk up from Chamonix Mont-Blanc. An option to consider if you are sporty and used to hiking. Indeed, the route has a positive elevation gain of 900 meters over a short distance.
Needless to say, while the forest landscape can be pleasant, especially in summer, it’s better to be well-prepared. Especially since the flat sections are quite limited.
Duration: 2 h 30 of walking for the ascent.
What to do around the Mer de Glace?
Chamonix is not just the Mer de Glace and the Montenvers train. The choices are vast in terms of tourism in the ski resort considered the capital of mountaineering.
Extend to the Aiguille du Midi
If you decide to go to the Mer de Glace via the Plan de l’Aiguille, take the opportunity to go all the way to the Aiguille du Midi. Once at the top, you will have the chance to see Mont Blanc up close.
Don’t hesitate to try the Pas dans le Vide, this glass cage that is located above the eternal snows. Guaranteed sensations, especially for those prone to vertigo.
For a complete visit to the Aiguille du Midi, plan for between 2 and 3 hours, including travel time. Don’t forget to wear warm clothing and appropriate shoes, even in summer, and bring sunglasses.
Hike to the Chéserys and enjoy the view
Another possibility is hiking. While there are many routes in Chamonix, we can only recommend climbing up to the Chéserys lake.
To get there, there are 4 options: starting from the Col des Montets, Argentière, or the Praz. You can also choose to take the Flégère cable car. From the lake, you will have a nice view of the Mer de Glace. Don’t hesitate to continue on to the Lac Blanc.
Extra tip: leave very early in the morning or late in the afternoon. In addition to enjoying the sunrise or sunset, you will avoid the many hikers present on the trails during the day. You will also have a better chance of spotting some ibex along the way.
Visit Chamonix Mont-Blanc
A stay in Chamonix, whether short or long, would not be complete without a visit to the village. Between the Alpine museum, the Crystal museum, or the restaurants and the golf course, you will have plenty to keep you occupied.
And for families, we recommend stopping by the Parc du Merlet, where your children can meet the local wildlife.
As for those looking to relax after a long day of hiking, we invite you to the QC Thermes de Chamonix. Relaxation and recovery guaranteed! And if you are looking for tourist accommodation for your vacation in the alpine resort, know that you will have plenty of choices.
